Installation for stage 4 rear big brake kit
Take these instructions to your mechanic. Do not try to install a brake system unless you are mechanically inclined. Silver Mine Motors is not responsible for any part failures due to miss installed brake upgrades.
- Note: when installing the calipers use the caliper that says LH (left hand) on the right hand side of the car (passenger side), And Vise versa for the other side.
- remove wheel
- remove brake drum
- Remove all shoes, springs, piston, etc (the whole brake system).
- Now this is the time to make a decision.
- Use a hand grinder to cut off your brake backing plate (this is the easy way)
- Remove your stub axel, (which enables you to change your old wheel bearings) I recommend this route unless you have already changed your wheel bearings. You should be mechanically inclined to do this.
- Bolt on your new caliper bracket to the axel housing.
- Take new caliper and hook up e-brake line. In order to hook up the e-brake line you must use the old bracket connection piece that came with the cars stock e-brake system. It is the piece that use to connect the actual metal cable to the old e-brake (lever) system. It has a pins and cotter pin holding a small cylindrical piece of metal to a square metal piece with a slot that holds the metal cable to the square metal piece.
- The e-brake cables will need to have the original mounts moved (where they branch over the differential) to allow additional slack to properly attach to the caliper.
- Make sure the piston has not moved out, and don’t pull on the e-brake yet.
- Now connect the cars stock hard brake line to the new steel braided brake line.
- Connect the banjo connection of the new brake line to the new caliper. Make sure the brake lines will not rub on any suspension parts through the suspensions full travel range.
- Put the new brake pads in the new caliper.
- Ok here is the unique technique for bleeding the caliper. You hold the loaded caliper in you hand or on a platform that will hold it for you since it is heavy. Put the rotor in the caliper (remember to put the pads in first). Once the rotor is in the caliper. Position the whole caliper so the bleeding nipple in almost parallel to the input of the brake line. The nipple should be a little bit higher that the input of the brake line. The reason for this is to make the bubbles in the caliper rise to the output of the bleeding nipple.
- Once this position is in place now you can start bleeding the caliper.
- Once the caliper is bled and the pedal is firm, install the rotor and mount the caliper to the new bracket which should have already been installed.
- Now you can celebrate, you’re done! Congratulations and enjoy the new brakes!
The e-brake cables will need to have the original mounts moved [where they branch over the diff] to allow additional slack to properly attach to the caliper.